Escape the crowds at the lower 48’s most remote national park

At a time when record crowds are seeing visitors to some U.S. national parks asked to pre-book access, Isle Royale National Park, an archipelago of around 400 islands on western Lake Superior, is the very definition of off the beaten track.

Its main island is about 50 miles long and nine miles wide—19 times the size of Manhattan—and sees less than one percent of the average number of visitors to Yosemite National Park when it opens to the public on around April 15 every year.

As the least-visited national park in the continental U.S., Isle Royale National Park is only reachable by ferry, private boat or seaplane from mainland Michigan and Minnesota.

It’s a place where the only vehicles are canoes and kayaks, and moose, wolves, beavers and smaller animals are the sole year-round residents. For many, its attraction—centered on its 36 campgrounds and 165 miles of back country trails—lies in the fact that it’s one of the few national parks with no instant Instagram gratification; cell phone coverage is patchy at best.

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A secret island wilderness

Crossing Lake Superior, the world’s largest freshwater lake by surface area, by ferry or seaplane is one of the highlights of the Isle Royale experience.

“Lake Superior is one of the best things about working on Isle Royale,” says lead ranger at Isle Royale National Park, Liz Valencia, who has worked on the island for more than 30 years.

“Seeing the lake in all its moods; it affects the island so much.”

Depending on the departure point, ferries run daily and take about 90 minutes to three hours to cross, serving the two main settlements located on either end of the island: Windigo in Washington Harbor on the southwestern side, and Rock Harbor on the northeastern end.

The island’s trails range from a mile-long nature hike, to guided hikes with rangers that, when available, are provided free-of-charge, to the 40-mile, cross-island epic Greenstone Ridge Trail.

Day tripping options

While it is geographically remote and parts of the main island have challenging hiking routes (its highest point at Mount Desor is 1,394 feet above sea level), it is broadly accessible to visitors in ways that high altitude or heavily forested national parks in many parts of the United States are not. And for those looking to dip their toes in the wilderness experience, the day return ferry service is an excellent option.

“I think that people might get it into their heads that they strap a big old backpack on and hike around for five days—you don’t have to do that at all,” says Valencia.

For visitors with mobility restrictions, Rock Harbor on the eastern end of the island has paved trails and a large, flat dock area, as well as a Visitor Center and restaurant.

Life on nature’s terms, and timetable

While day-trippers can get a lot in during just a few hours on the island, ferry operators suggest travelers be prepared for an unexpected overnight stay on the island if inclement weather blows in. There’s a satellite phone available for a fee located at a store and visitor center at both ends of the island, when they are open.

While there are some sheltered areas around the main island such as Tobin Harbor, paddlers shouldn’t make Isle Royale their first Lake Superior experience. Inland lakes are dotted around the island, some with campgrounds close to their shorelines, though again, paddling is best for those with previous portaging and packing experience.

“Once you get to the island the message for most people is relax and enjoy your visit,” says Valencia.

“Don’t be in a rush to see everything and get everywhere. Isle Royale is not really the kind of place where there’s one thing you need to see.”

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The Washington Harbor Camper Cabins (no indoor plumbing; outdoor restroom facilities are nearby) and the Rock Harbor Lodge are the sources of indoor accommodation on Isle Royale, but they book up quickly.

Open from early June to mid-September and situated on the eastern side of the island, the early 1900s-era Rock Harbor Lodge has rooms and secluded cabins close to the Greenstone Grill restaurant.

From here, visitors can explore Lake Superior via a fleet of boats available for rent. Fishing trips in which guests can have their catch cooked back at the restaurant are also available.

“One of its defining features is that it sits on the largest freshwater lake in the world, so it’s definitely a water park,” says Kim Alexander, who until this year served as the general manager of Rock Harbor Lodge since the early 1990s.

“We can use our water taxi service to drop people off for some longer hikes—10, 15-mile day hikes if people want to do that.”

Getting involved

As it celebrates its 85th anniversary as a national park this year, volunteering has become an enduring practice on Isle Royale, including through the island’s Moose-Wolf project.

The Isle Royale Institute brings around a dozen elementary, middle and high school teachers from around the country to the Park every year.

“Last year we spent 11 days on the island talking to visitors, taking photos and creating information to be shared with the public,” says Karen Bacula, the Institute’s director. “We hiked, canoed and camped; people learned a lot about what’s going on with nature on the island.”

For Valencia, there’s no single best time to visit.

“Being there for the entire season you get to see the island at different times,” she says, though she does have a favorite. “I love the spring, seeing the orchids and delicate little plants come out. I love seeing it come alive.”

How to do it

Ferry services sail to Isle Royale National Park. The most popular service departs from Houghton, on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, which is a six-hour drive from downtown Minneapolis. Houghton’s airport sees two flights a day land from Chicago O’Hare International Airport.

Ferries also depart from Copper Harbor, Michigan, and Grand Portage, Minnesota (NB: Minnesota is on Central Time while Isle Royale National Park is on Eastern Time), for Rock Harbor and Windigo—the island’s two main marinas.

Park entry fees are $7 per visitor per day, with children ages 15 and younger exempt. Pay online ahead of time to avoid any holdups upon arrival. The National Park Service website has an excellent day-trip guide for the Rock Harbor area. Its guide for first-time visitors is here.

Pets are not allowed on the island and those traveling with service dogs are asked to follow National Park Service procedures that are available on its website.

Indoor accommodation books up quickly. If by April visitors haven’t already secured accommodation for the upcoming season, it’s likely time to break out the tents.