The Swiss town Silvaplana is an under-the-radar outdoor mecca

As the Maloja wind sweeps through the Engadin Valley like clockwork around noon, dozens of colorful kites soar over Silvaplana Lake—one of the few places in the world where you can kite surf against the backdrop of snow-powdered peaks.

Set in Eastern Switzerland’s canton of Graubünden, Silvaplana once inspired Friedrich Nietzsche. The German philosopher was a frequent summer guest to the area, where he took many walks along Lake Silvaplana. According to the local lore, it was here where Nietzsche came up with “eternal recurrence,” one of the central concepts of his philosophy.

A quick look around is enough to realize why Nietzsche kept coming back: Surrounded by 3,000-meter peaks, the town boasts magnificent scenery and an unhurried atmosphere.

Silvaplana is a neighbor of St. Moritz, a host of the Winter Olympics in 1928 and 1948. While St. Moritz is known for high-end winter travel, where a day of skiing is often followed by fine dining and shopping for designer brands, Silvaplana maintains its small-town atmosphere with cozy hotels and restaurants run by local families. 

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“What makes Silvaplana truly different from other parts of Switzerland is this combination of high-alpine scenery and an almost coastal lifestyle—it’s rare to find that mix,” says Daniel Bosshard, the mayor. “At the same time, the village has maintained its authentic charm and close-knit community. People here know each other, support each other, and share a strong connection to the land and its traditions.”

Located near Italy, the valley is a melting pot of cultures, where people might greet you with “bun di” (Romansh), “grüezi” (Swiss German), or “ciao” (Italian).

What to do and see in Silvaplana

Silvaplana boasts a small downtown where you can step inside the Church of Santa Maria or take a quick walk to Crap da Sass Castle, built in 1906.

Beloved by kite surfers and freestyle skiers, Silvaplana is more remote than tourist favorites such as Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, and Zermatt. Here you’ll find one of the best lakes for kite surfing in the world, thanks to the Maloja wind that occurs when cold air from the Maloja Pass descends on the lake.

If you are new to this sport, book a lesson at Swiss Kitesurf, a local school where you can learn the ropes of kite and windsurfing. The best time for kite surfing on the lake is from May through September, when the consistent Maloja wind creates favorable conditions for gliding on the water. 

Muottas Muragl is a funicular railway that climbs 2,296 feet (700 meters) from Punt Muragl up to Muottas Muragl. Built between 1905 and 1907, this bright red funicular mostly retained its original look, despite being heavily modernized for speed and convenience. Once you reach the top, you can take in the views or hike to the Segantini Hut and Schafberg. 

As summer arrives in the Engadin Valley, thousands of bright flowers pop up across alpine meadows, making for a fantastic hiking experience. The flat valley offers plenty of trails, and if you crave adventure, you can take a cable car or attempt a more challenging trail to a higher altitude.

The alpine terrain above the valley is home to boutique-style restaurants inside rustic mountain huts that serve up traditional Swiss dishes such as fondue and raclette. The food and cooking ingredients often get delivered by a helicopter as most of these restaurants are accessible only by foot.

Bikers also have many options here. Head to Engadin Bikes in St. Moritz to rent a bicycle and then explore the many paths along the lake. The valley has biking trails for all levels, from Foppetta’s Flow Trail Part 2 that’s more manageable for beginner mountain bikers to the expert trails like Val Roseg. 

A scenic drive along one of the mountain passes in the area will allow you to appreciate the beauty of the area. Cruise along the tourist-popular Bernina Pass, Julier Pass, that connects the Engadin Valley with central Graubünden, or Maloja Pass, a mesmerizing alpine route with dozens of switchbacks.

Lej Marsch is a small lake between Silvaplana and St. Moritz that’s a popular swimming spot for locals in summer. The lake can be accessed via one of the many trails that run through the area. 

Where to eat and drink in Silvaplana

Restaurant 3303 is the highest restaurant in the canton of Graubünden, located at the summit of Piz Corvatsch. The dining area offers sweeping views of the Bernina Range and the Upper Engadin.

A trendy spot with a spacious porch, Mulets Restorant-Pizzeria offers comfort food like burgers with chunky fries and homemade green curry sauce, flavor-packed pizzas, and a signature salad. If you crave something sweet after dinner, don’t miss the chocolate soufflé for dessert. 

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A fine dining restaurant with a low-key atmosphere, Restaurant Alpenrose is the place to indulge in typical Swiss dishes like rösti (hashbrowns) with bratwurst and onion gravy and traditional barley soup. If you want to enjoy a gourmet meal in a more relaxed setting, it’s a good alternative to more upscale dining spots in St. Moritz.

Da Franco is an Italian eatery that serves homemade pasta, salads, and tiramisu and boasts an extensive selection of drinks including wine, limoncello, and liqueurs.

The Hut, Wine Food & Wood is a cozy restaurant with an impressive list of wines from Switzerland and around the world. Order your meal and sip on a drink in their outdoor area or pick a spot indoors to enjoy live music and social atmosphere. 

Where to stay

What makes Silvaplana special is that many businesses are owned and run by local families who have been in the area for decades, and even generations. Daniel Bosshard, the mayor of Silvaplana since 2016, first came to Upper Engadin in 1980 to work as a chef at the Suvretta House in St. Moritz. Since 2009, he has been running Albana Hotel Silvaplana with his wife, Malvika Bosshard-Jürisaar.

Hotel Bellavista is a cozy, family-run hotel in a quiet part of Surlej, one of the three districts that make-up Silvaplana, between Lake Champfèr and Lake Silvaplana. The on-site restaurant is mostly known for its wild game meat, but it also serves fondue, and Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, buckwheat pasta combined with potatoes, cabbage, and gooey cheese, a regional dish from Northern Italy that’s been adopted in parts of Switzerland.

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Conrad’s Mountain Lodge is a neatly decorated hotel with small rooms overlooking the lake, and a mighty buffet with freshly made eggs, omelettes, pancakes, and other breakfast staples. The free shuttle bus to the Corvatsch Cable Car in Surlej stops just 160 feet from the property, and the on-site spa with sauna and steam room are perfect after enjoying the outdoors.

If you have a car and a tent, or travel in an RV, consider spending a night at Camping Silvaplana, the only campground in town with basic facilities. The campground sits along Lake Silvaplana, and is particularly popular with kite and wind surfers.